Black hair care products may impact health and identity

Hair care products marketed to Black communities may be impacting both health and cultural identity, a community-led research project in Reading has found.

The research, believed to be the first in the UK, found that many widely used Black hair products, including hair relaxer, dyes and straighteners, contain potentially harmful substances such as endocrine disruptors, which may interfere with the body’s hormonal system and contribute to hair loss and wider health risks.

The researchers behind Project Natura say these findings raise urgent concerns about safety, regulation, and transparency across the cosmetics and hair care industries. 

Beyond health, the research explored how Black hair connects to cultural identity and belonging, revealing that Eurocentric beauty pressures can have long-lasting effects on self-esteem and mental wellbeing across generations.

Project Natura was led by TRIYBE, a Reading-based organisation dedicated to social equity, empowerment, and community transformation. The research project combined community dialogue with hands-on science to investigate the impact of Black hair care products. 

Working alongside academic researchers Dr Alice Mpofu-Coles (University of Reading), Symiah Barnett (Loughborough University) and Dr Tamanda Walker (University of Leeds), TRIYBE engaged community participants of Black heritage from Reading, London and across the south-east through a combination of workshops, podcasts, cultural forums and social media. More than 7,600 people were reached overall, with the majority engaging online via podcasts and social channels.

The science bit

A series of laboratory workshops at the University of Reading gave participants the opportunity to observe for themselves the effects of hair relaxers, texturisers and heat on hair. Participants compared treated and untreated samples under microscopes, allowing them to see the physical damage caused by the products.

“The hands-on experiments really helped me to understand the impact of harmful chemicals in Black hair, scalp, and beard products,” said one participant. “Seeing the science in action made everything feel real and relevant.”

The workshops were oversubscribed, reflecting the strong demand within the Black community to understand the health implications of everyday hair products.

Cultural identity

The lab experiments were paired with candid discussions about identity, cultural pressure, self-worth, masculinity and marketing. Further events such as brunches and podcast forums were also held – these were designed to bring in a wider range of voices, including those of children and those less likely to engage in research projects.

Stories shared in these sessions revealed the damaging impact of Eurocentric beauty standards, with natural Black hairstyles often stigmatised or penalised in schools and workplaces, leading to issues with mental health and wellbeing.

Claudette Maharaj, Director of TRIYBE, said: “When I began this project, I wanted to amplify something that truly centred Black heritage voices to make direct change bringing together science, heritage, and lived experience. In Black heritage communities, hair is more than style; it’s a language of pride, creativity, spirituality, and ancestry. Yet it remains politicised. Project Natura opened a space for honest conversations about health, identity, and belonging, while empowering people with knowledge and safer choices.”

Symiah Barnett, from Loughborough University, said: “Working alongside TRIYBE, we placed lived experience at the heart of this research. The project shows that Black hair is not a superficial concern – it connects directly to health, wellbeing and cultural identity, and must be recognised as a public health issue.”

What next

TRIYBE is now developing a comprehensive scientific report of its findings, as well as guidelines for Black hair care and educational resources for schools and healthcare providers.

The organisation has also sought funding to further research and education into this area, including calling for stronger regulation of cosmetic products and the recognition of Black hair as a public health issue.

Find more information about the TRIYBE project online.

Project Natura was developed as part of the Community-Led Research Pilot, co-created by the University of Reading and the British Science Association, and funded by UK Research & Innovation and the University of Reading.

Led by the University of Reading’s Dr Sally Lloyd-Evans, Public Engagement with Community Research Fellow, and Dr Alice Mpofu-Coles, Senior Research Fellow in the Department of Geography and Environmental Science, the pilot programme aimed to put local knowledge at the heart of the research process, empowering communities to shape the questions that matter most to them and set the research agenda rather than have it imposed on them from the outside.

This community-led approach ensures that research is inclusive, accessible, and grounded in the lived experiences of those who are often excluded from traditional academic practice.