90/19

Reversible oiled smock used while collecting for local charities. Made from dark brown linen and cream thread. Oiled with linseed oil.
An oiled smock obtained by depositor's husband who wore it while collecting for local charities. This is a reversible smock made from dark brown linen and cream thread. The linen has been oiled. It is hand sewn. It is in poor condition. There is smocking on the chest at front and back, and on the sleeves at the top and above the cuff. There is embroidery on the collar, yoke, pockets, cuffs. The oiled linen is extremely fragile, with many holes and repairs. The smock is 91.5cm in length.

1 oiled smock: linen; fragile condition- very worn, and repaired

Citation in publication [Oliver, Tina, 'Smocks: A Guide to the Collections' (Reading: The University of Reading, 2000)] -‘Three smocks from the same donor, the widow of a retired shepherd, although it is most unlikely that he would have worn a smock during his working life. It is suggested that the smocks were obtained around the time of his retirement in the 1960s for ‘dressing up' and fund raising for local charities, accompanied by his sheep dog. Nothing further is known of the origins of the garments. // 90/19- An unusual reversible smock in the fact the fabric was originally ‘oiled’, treated with linseed oil, and made more waterproof. Unfortunately the smock is now in a very delicate condition, the deterioration of the fabric accelerated by the oiling process, because of this very few oiled smocks survive. The fabric is dark brown, smocking is very simple and minimal, with rows of finely worked feather and stem stitching on the shoulder band and collar and cuff edges. It is suggested that the fabric is woven from hemp fibres as opposed to flax. The fabric produced from hemp fibre is similar but usually coarser than linen.// Details of an extensive study of similar smock (held by Worthing Museum) and subsequent conservation process, conducted by a student of the Textile Conservation Centre in 1966, are held at Southampton University, Winchester School of Art Library (Reference: 1712.2). An unworn oiled smock in the collection of Guilford Museum (Museum number: NG 1214).' (p.28-29), Letter, Jill Betts to Louise Squire, 10 January 1996 - 'Dear Louise // Thank you for writing to me about the results on the analysis of your smock. It does appear that our oiled smock may be similar and perhaps sometime we will get a fibre tested. // I am too busy at present to come and look at the smock you have but I would be interested to hear how your research goes and to have a copy of any results/reports that you produce. // Thank you again for writing. // Yours sincerely // Mrs J Betts', Letter, Louise Squire to Jill Betts, 30 November 1995 - 'Dear Jill Betts // I was most interested to see your wonderful colection of smocks, and in particular the oiled smock, in October. Thank you for taking the time to show them to me. // I have delayed in writing because I have been waiting for the results of the analysis on the oiled smock which I know you were interested in. Pyrolysis Gas Chromatography/Mass Spectroscopy indicated that the fibre was characteristic of linen and that the finish was a drying oil. This suggests that it is probably linseed oil. Further microscopic analysis has suggested that the fibre is hemp, so the results on the fibre are as yet, inconclusive. // The smock I am treating is very similar in appearance to yours and has the same type of degradation so it could be that the materials are the same. // If you would like more information, or to see this smock, do contact me at the Textile Conservation Centre. // Your sincerely, // Louise Squire', MERL Accession Form-‘Standard museum name: oiled smock// Accession number 90/19// Classification: Personal, clothing, garment// Negative number: 60/15749// Acquisition method: gift// Acquired from: Mrs Beckett, Langley, Slough, via Slough Museum// Date: 14 March 1990// Store: small object// Condition: Fragile; very worn, repaired// Recorder JMB// Date: 25.9.90// Description: Oiled linen smock, dark brown in colour, with opening at the back and front of neck. It has a collar and there are buttons at neck and cuffs [total of four]. It has small squares of smocking on either side of each neck opening and also at top of sleeves and cuffs. There is feather stitching on shoulder and edges of collar and cuffs. There is a pocket on each side. // Dimensions: Length – 95.0cm// Length of sleeve – 53.0cm// Width at hem – 92.0cm’, Letter, Mrs Thompson to Mr Brigden, 16th March 1990-‘Dear Roy, Thank you for your help over the smocks and shepherd’s crook on Wednesday. I hope that the following information will help you to complete your records. The smocks were owned by Mr Percy Beckett who lived in Langley and who died approximately 18 months ago. They were given to me by his widow, Mrs Beckett, whose address is 15, New Road, Langley, Slough. I shall write to her to let her know that I have passed some of the items which she gave me on to you; perhaps you could write to her too? Mr Beckett was never, I understand, a shepherd locally, but collected these items of costume and used them to raise funds for local charities at festivals and fairs, dressed up with his sheepdog carrying a collecting box. By my calculations he probably retired from work during approximately the mid 1960s. It seems likely that it was at about this time that he began his collecting, although this is only a guess on my part. Mrs Beckett told me that the crook came from Wales and that the various smocks were given by various people (provenance is therefore difficult). Mr Beckett was, according to Mrs Beckett, keen that the most decorative of the smocks which I have passed on to you should go to Reading. She did not seem to know whether he had meant M.E.R.L. or Reading Borough. I have assumed that he meant M.E.R.L., but perhaps you could mention it to John Rhodes if you have the opportunity or perhaps I could do so myself? Many thanks, Isobel.’

1959-01-01 - 1999-12-31

Late-twentieth century

Fibre, flax, Fibre

Smocked, Stitched, Embroidered

Slough Museum ()