Archival history
Citation in publication [Oliver, Tina, 'Smocks: A Guide to the Collections' (Reading: The University of Reading, 2000)] – ‘63/280–286 // The smocks in this group originate from The Bere Regis Arts and crafts Association, Bere Regis, Dorset. The association was formed in 1905 by the Vicar’s wife, the members of the association produced smocks and raffia baskets from 1905 until 1919. The son of the founder donated the smocks to the Museum in 1963. In a letter written in 1963 the donor says ‘Mrs. Bere’s interests were artistic rather than historical; and she believed that the old English smock, with the traditional form of design based entirely on squares and oblongs, had great intrinsic artistic merit. She also admired greatly the traditional patterns and showed splendid scorn for those who described the gathering across the chest as ‘smocking’. p.19, ‘Smocks: A guide to the Collection (Rural History Centre)’, Tina Oliver, 2000, p.19 – ‘Originally mid blue linen, smocked and embroidered with cream thread. This smock does not have the characteristic underarm gusset. The smocking is worked in simple bands and the embroidery is a variation of the previous design but worked slightly differently. The smock fastens right over left with Dorset buttons and is constructed to the same high standard as the other smocks in the group.’, Photographic prints – 'Acc. No // 63/283 // Neg. No. // 60/5981', MERL 'Handwritten accession' form (Institute of Agricultural History) – 'Standard museum name: SMOCK // Accession number: 63/283 // Classification: PERSONAL clothing garment // Negative number: 60/5981 // Acquisition method: GIFT // Date: November 1963 // Store: SMOCK CUPBOARD // Condition: good but faded + darned // Recorder: JMB // Date: 6.3.90 // Description: A light blue linen hand sewn with white thread. It has a collar and deep neck opening. There are two pockets with flaps. The neck and pockets are fastened with Dorset buttons. There are panels of smocking on the back and front and at the tops of the sleeves and at the end of the sleeves. There are panels of embroidery at the front and back, shoulders, collars & cuffs and pocket flaps. // Dimensions: [page break] Length of smock: 44 3/4” // Chest: 17 3/4” // Sleeve length: 24 3/4” // width: 11 3/4” // Cuff length: 1 1/2” // Smock panel 10 1/2” deep // 3 1/4” wide // Embroidered side panels 9 1/8” deep // 3” wide // Associated information: This smock was made at the Bere Regis Arts and Crafts centre in Dorset between 1905–1919. // The Dorset buttons on 63/283 & 281 are hand made embroidered buttons using linen thread. // References:’, MERL ‘Temporary Catalogue’ form – ‘Sheet 1 of // material(s): pale blue linen, white thread, small white ‘Dorset’ buttons (embroidered on wire) // Condition: fair, faded, small holes in fabric, […] stitching torn, cuff edges worn // total length; 116cm // collar depth; 13cm // cuffs depth; 4cm // place made; Dorset. Bere Regis // makers; Bere Regis Arts + Crafts Association // date made; between 1905-1919 // Description: handsewn; style: round frock with front opening having five ‘Dorset’ buttons, deep hem; collar: two straight pieces, tucked with 3 tucks on outer edges; cuffs: straight bands, one ‘dorset button’ on each; pockets: set in across side seams, flaps, one button each; // [page break] tubing: cable and points, back and front (each side of opening) – 33 rows, sleeves, tops – 6 rows, above cuffs – 13 rows; embroidery: single and double feather stitch; boxes – flowers (circles) and leaves with 3 vertical and 1 horizontal rows; collar – similar with vertical rows on tucks; cuffs, shoulders and pocket flaps – leaves, edged; front band – edged // Sheet 2 of 3 // pockets flaps, ht x w; 4.5 x 18cm // front opening, length; 38cm // tubing, back ht x w; 22 x 22cm // Sheet 3 of 3 // tubing, front ht x w; 20 x 19cm // tubing, sleeves, tops, ht x w; 3 x 3cm // “ “ , above cuff, ht x w; 6 x 7cm // hem circumference; 174cm // hem depth; 10.5cm’, Rennie M. Bere, October 1963 – ‘The Bere Regis Arts and Crafts Association – This association formed in 1905 or 1906 in the village of Bere Regis, Dorset with the object of interesting local workers in the making of raffia baskets and smocks of traditional old English pattern. The founder and organiser was Sarah Lucy Bere, wife of Rev. Montague Acland Bere, vicar of Bere Regis from 1905 to 1919. The association had its heyday in the years before World War I and, in effect, must have ceased as a corporate enterprise when both vicar and founder left for war service early in 1916. In 1919 they returned but for a few months only and, thereafter, though a few individual workers continued to take orders, either direct or through Mrs. Bere, the association ceased as such. // The association used to meet on regular days each week in a special room in the vicarage and it seems that there were about fifteen or twenty regular workers, all women of the village. The baskets were made of raffia without cane and appear remarkably similar to the well known Nubi-type baskets commonly made in various parts of Africa. By far and away the most important part of the work was the smocking, however. And, amongst other patrons, Queen Alexandra showed interest in the work and accepted a smock from Mrs. Bere at about the time of the Coronation of 1910. // Mrs. Bere’s interests were artistic rather than historical; and she believed that the old English smock, with the traditional form of design based entirely on squares and oblongs, had great intrinsic artistic merit. She also admired greatly the traditional patterns and showed splendid scorn for those who described the gathering across the chest as ‘smocking’. It is probably that her interest was aroused first by old smocks in the Dorchester museum which her uncle, Capt. J.E.A.Acland was at one time curator. She collected patterns from various sources and localities; many of these being included in her sampler. Mrs. Bere’s view seems to have been that the smocking patterns were not simply representative of the county or region in which they were worn as was generally supposed but, subject to some local variation and the local prevalence of certain trades, represented the trade of the wearer. So a farmer wishing to engage a ploughman or a carter, a shepherd or a gardener had only to look at the smocking patterns of the men who went to the local markets looking for jobs. The writer of this note offers no opinion as to the correctness of this view.’
